Bearded Dragon

Bearded Dragon Care Guide

Bearded dragons (Pogona vitticeps) are one of the most rewarding reptile companions you can own. They are active, personable, and thrive with proper husbandry. This guide covers everything you need to raise a healthy beardie from baby to adult.

Note for new owners: It is completely normal for babies and juveniles to refuse their greens. Do not panic — this is very common at young ages. Keep offering greens at every feeding and they will come around as they mature.

Housing

Bearded dragons require a minimum enclosure size of 4x2x2 feet for a single adult. This applies from the start — a properly sized enclosure with the right thermal gradient is always the best choice. Larger enclosures are always welcome.

Temperature & Heating

Bearded dragons need a strong thermal gradient to thermoregulate effectively:

  • Basking spot: 100–110°F
  • Cool side: 80–85°F
  • Nighttime: No lower than 65°F

Use a halogen or mercury vapor bulb for basking. Always verify temperatures with a digital thermometer or temp gun — never rely on dial thermometers.

UVB Lighting

UVB is non-negotiable for bearded dragons. Without it, they cannot synthesize vitamin D3, which leads to Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD). Use a high-output UVB bulb (10.0 or 12%) spanning at least 2/3 of the enclosure length. Replace UVB bulbs every 6 months even if they still emit visible light, as UVB output degrades before the bulb burns out. Maintain a 12–14 hour light cycle during summer and 10–12 hours in winter.

Substrate

Safe substrate options include:

  • Ceramic tile
  • Paper towels (ideal for babies and juveniles)
  • Bioactive setups with a proper drainage layer and topsoil/sand mix (for adults)

Avoid loose particle substrates like play sand or calcium sand for babies and juveniles due to impaction risk.

Feeding: Baby to Adult

Bearded dragon diet changes significantly as they grow. Here's a breakdown by life stage:

Baby (0–3 months)

  • Diet ratio: 80% insects / 20% greens
  • Feeding frequency: 3–5 times per day, as many insects as they can eat in 10 minutes
  • Best feeders: Small crickets, small dubia roaches, black soldier fly larvae
  • Greens: Collard greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens (finely chopped)

Juvenile (3–12 months)

  • Diet ratio: 60% insects / 40% greens
  • Feeding frequency: 2–3 times per day
  • Best feeders: Medium crickets, dubia roaches, hornworms (as treats)
  • Greens: Same as above, with more variety introduced

Adult (12+ months)

  • Diet ratio: 20–30% insects / 70–80% greens & vegetables
  • Feeding frequency: Insects 3–4 times per week; fresh greens daily
  • Best feeders: Dubia roaches, superworms (occasional treat), hornworms
  • Greens & veggies: Collard greens, mustard greens, butternut squash, bell peppers, snap peas

Avoid: Spinach, iceberg lettuce, avocado, fireflies, and wild-caught insects.

Supplementation

  • Calcium without D3: 3–4x per week for all ages
  • Calcium with D3: At least 1x per week for all ages
  • Multivitamin: 2x per week for all ages

Water & Hydration

While bearded dragons do get hydration from their greens and insects, fresh water should always be available in the enclosure. Place a shallow water bowl and change the water daily. This ensures they always have access to clean water when they need it.

Shedding

Bearded dragons are dry shedders — never soak a bearded dragon during a shed. Soaking is not necessary and can cause more harm than good. Ensure proper humidity levels and a rough surface in the enclosure (like a rock or cork bark) to help them rub off loose shed naturally. Avoid handling during active shedding.

Handling

Bearded dragons are generally very tolerant of handling. Start with short sessions and build up gradually. Always support their full body, especially the belly and tail. Avoid handling during shedding or within an hour of feeding.

Common Health Concerns

  • Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD): Caused by insufficient UVB and/or calcium — prevent with proper lighting and supplementation.
  • Impaction: Caused by ingesting loose substrate or oversized feeders — always feed appropriately sized insects (no wider than the space between their eyes).
  • Parasites: Pinworms are common — have a fecal exam done by a reptile vet annually.
  • Brumation: Adult bearded dragons may enter a dormancy-like state in winter — this is normal but monitor weight and hydration.

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